Ben Starr

The Ultimate Food Geek

Ben’s Secret to Stock

Homemade stocks make ALL the difference in recipes, particularly in soups, sauces, and gravies.  But who’s got room in their freezer for gallons and gallons of homemade stock?  Lots of TV chefs will tell you to reduce the stock a bit and then freeze it in ice cube trays, but then you have to maintain a separate set of ice cube trays, and then you’ve STILL got big ziploc bags of frozen stocksicles in your freezer, and when you add them to a sauce, it brings the temp of the sauce down, which means longer cooking times.

Ben to the rescue!  But before I give away my big homemade stock storage secret, we should chat a little bit about stock.

ANY time you have bones of any kind, or shells from shellfish, toss them in a plastic grocery bag into your freezer.  Yes…this takes up a bit of space.  But as soon as you have a couple of chicken carcasses or a few pounds of beef or pork bones, or a few bags of shrimp/crawfish/lobster shells or fish skeletons, you’ve got enough to make a LOT of stock and they can go right into the pot.

I roast whole chickens a lot, typically at least once a week.  But even if you don’t go to that work, you certainly pick up rotisserie chickens at the grocery store deli every once in awhile, right?  How about fried chicken?  All those bones can go into the freezer when you’re done eating the meat.  I’ve found that 2 chicken carcasses, or 12-16 fried chicken bones will make a couple gallons of really great stock.

If you’ve got a pressure cooker, making stock is a breeze, and your stock turns out MUCH richer and fuller flavored than stock made in a traditional pot.  20 minutes in the pressure cooker for chicken stock, an hour for beef/lamb/pork (roast the bones first at 400F for an hour, tossed in canola oil) or smoked ham hock stock.  If you want, toss in an onion quartered (you don’t even have to peel it) and a handful of garlic cloves (you don’t even have to peel them), a whole unpeeled carrot or two, and a few stalks of celery broken in half.  Or really whatever you’ve got.  Just bones is okay, too.  All the stuff in the stock is going in the trash anyway, so don’t worry about peeling and cutting everything, just toss it all in there.  Add a Tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice to help extract calcium and collagen from the bones and connective tissues, ensuring a mouth-coating, rich stock.  If you don’t have a pressure cooker, use a large stock pot, cover it, and simmer very gently for 1 hour for chicken stock, or 3 hours for beef/lamb/pork or smoked ham hock stock.  For shellfish or fish stock, avoid the pressure cooker.  Toast shellfish shells  in canola oil, add water and any aromatics, and bring just to a bare simmer for 30 minutes, then strain.

Pour the stock through a colander to strain out the solids, and discard or compost them.  Then return the stock to the pot and bring to a boil on high.

Then just leave it there boiling away.  You’re aiming to reduce it to almost nothing, which make take several hours.  But when the liquid level gets low and the stock gets really thick, you want to be around to keep an eye on it.  When it looks like the stock is as thick as gravy, cloudy and opaque, probably only a cup or two of liquid left, you’re done.  Turn off the heat and let it cool.

Homemade chicken stock concentrate

The stock concentrate will solidify into something like very hard jelly or paste.  Then just scrape it off the bottom of the pot and put it into a jar, pressing it down as much as possible to firmly pack it in the jar.  Then just put the jar in the fridge for future use.  Use as much or as little as you want to make your stock.  A Tablespoon or two of this stuff will make a quart of delicious homemade stuck.  A teaspoon in a cup of sauce will lend explosive flavor and richness.  It’s homemade bouillon, without all the preservatives and MSG.

Before melting, but still perfectly usable and easy to measure

Or, you can then put the jars in a hot water bath to melt the stock concentrate into a solid mass in the jar.  This lets you put more stock concentrate in each jar, but doesn’t necessarily help you measure it out more easily.

Melting condenses the stock concentrate so you can fit more in each jar, but is optional and does make it harder to measure out

There’s almost always more room in my fridge than in my freezer.  After all, my fridge is bigger, and food moves in and out of it much more quickly.  A pint jar of stock concentrate in my fridge door is enough to make 2-4 gallons of full flavored stock.  Imagine how much space that would take up in the freezer?  Or imagine 8-16 boxes of grocery store stock, which doesn’t taste nearly as good, taking up that space in my pantry?  No way!

Having stock concentrate is SO much handier than having regular stock around.  It’s concentrated!  You don’t have to wait for 20 minutes for a sauce made of stock to reduce, simply add a spoon of stock concentrate and a bit of wine and your sauce is ready in seconds.  After discovering this method, it revolutionized my cooking.  Yes, it’s a bit of a hassle on stock making day.  But it’s not like you have to sit there at the stove for hours, just check on it once every 20 or 30 minutes, then baby it for the last few minutes until it’s appropriately reduced.  Then you’ve got stock to last you a month or longer!  Totally worth it, at least for me!

Share your stock secrets with us by commenting below, and subscribe to my blog near the upper right corner of your screen so you don’ t miss any great articles and recipes!

18 responses to “Ben’s Secret to Stock”

  1. Amy Wood Avatar

    This is amazing. I know what I am going to do after we devour plates of meat at Easter.

  2. Fab Foodist Avatar
    Fab Foodist

    Just out of curiosity, how long will the concentrated stock be good for when stored in the fridge? I accidentally over-reduced stock once a few years ago almost to the consistency you indicated, but used it up within a week because I didn’t know how well it would keep. I imagine the fat content would act as a preservative to extend its usable life?

    I only have one stock secret that I haven’t come across in any culinary multimedia. I make seafood stock about twice per year for smoked salmon chowder. About three years ago, we’d just returned from a trip where we’d harvested a lot of Alaskan shrimp in Prince William Sound, in addition to catching a slew of red salmon. We ladies always process the shrimp right there on the back deck of the boat after the shrimp pots are brought up, and I’d witnessed (with chagrin) throughout the years that the gals would pull the heads off the shrimp and toss them overboard. So this time, I maneuvered my way into Lead Shrimp Head Plucker, and had to discreetly chuck the heads into a freezer bag after the women expressed horror at the thought of using the heads in cooking. When we returned to land and immediately got the red salmon brining and smoking in anticipation of the delicious chowder, I tried a new technique for the seafood stock. I followed the usual protocol of toasting the shrimp and crab shells I had in my freezer, roughly chopped up some onion, made an herb bouquet. Then- for whatever reason- I chucked it all, plus the fresh shrimp heads, in a crockpot with some water. I turned the slow-cooker on ‘Low’ and let the stock do its thing for six hours.

    Oh. My. Goodness. My tastebuds could hardly compute the richness and complexity of flavor that had blossomed in the stock. I disposed of the stock’s ingredients with the same secrecy that I’d garnered the shrimp heads, and set about making the chowder (with the same recipe I always use, and thus everyone is quite familiar with). However, the stock elevated the soup to an entire new dimension- a flavor profile that wasn’t lost upon my otherwise cuisinally-unadventurous cohorts. I can’t, and won’t, make seafood stock any other way now. And I never divulged to the diners why the chowder was suddenly so much more flavorful.

    1. Ben Avatar

      Jordan, you discovered a wonderful secret! The heads (of any creature) make the BEST stock! When we harvest chickens to serve at FRANK, we always keep the heads and feet for stock. They make a rich, golden, thick, mouth-watering stock that our diners always comment on. And the trick to a good seafood stock is low temperatures, definitely below the boil.

      The concentrated stock should last many months in the fridge. After all, the moisture content is low, the salt and protein content is high. And you’re adding it to boiling liquid, so any bacterial buildup will be dealt with by the heat. My concentrate never lasts that long, because stock is such an integral ingredient. I even use this to season non-stock dishes like casseroles, pasta sauces, etc.

  3. Linda Grant Avatar

    I am super excited to try this! Any tricks for veggie stock, which I use often?

    1. Ben Avatar

      Linda, the trouble with reducing veggie stock is that you start to lose flavor the longer plant compounds are boiled. Veggie stock you only want to boil 15 minutes or so…the flavors start to become bland afterward. It’s still probably gonna land you with a better stock than you get in the store. But veggie stock is best made fresh and used immediately, and because it takes so little time to make, it’s not as laborious as meat stocks.

    2. Natalie Avatar
      Natalie

      Hi Linda, and hello Ben! Here’s a very simple veg bouillon that I use all the time. I keep it in my freezer and use it for months – I completely ignore her expiration instructions and have had no ill effects. 🙂 http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/homemade-bouillon-recipe.html

      1. Ben Avatar

        Thanks for sharing, Natalie!

  4. Kathie Avatar
    Kathie

    Sounds awesome! How long will it really keep in the fridge? You reference a month or longer, but how long is “longer” for those of who go through phases of cooking a lot, then not cooking a lot.

    1. Ben Avatar

      Kathie, here’s my take on it. If it’s got a little mold, scrape it off. If it smells rotten, throw it out. I would imagine this reduced stock would be good for 3-4 months in the fridge, but your results may vary depending on salinity and fat content. Remember that you’re putting this into boiling water, so if there has been bacteria buildup, it will pasteurize. But if it’s downright rotten…chunk it out!

  5. Cathy Hodge Smith Avatar
    Cathy Hodge Smith

    Ben, you are a far superior cook than I will ever be, but I thought I would contribute a few tips about making stock that I learned from my mother. My mother made more of a broth style stock which was brown in color and cloudy rather than the standard clear stock. My mother would roast seasoned, unpeeled root vegetables, celery, leeks and onions to later use in the stock as she felt that many vegetables loose their flavor (especially celery and leeks) when boiled. She started her pot with oil, then added onion that was quartered, root and top trimmed removed, but the outer skin left on… it is a great source of flavor. If she was making poultry stock, she also added a couple of raw drumsticks to brown. She would break the bones before adding them to the pot to extract as much flavor as possible. In addition to the aromatics that you mentioned, my mother also added bay leaves, peppercorns, a bit of dill and as odd as it sounds, a couple of cloves. She also added a cut lemon after removing the seeds. Before my mother added the root vegetables, she pureed them in the blender with a bit of water. She was meticulous about removing the foam scum on the top of the broth before she began to stain out the bones etc. She would always change her cooking pots at this point because she didn’t want any of the scum on the sides of the pot to be part of her broth/stock. Then she added her pureed vegetables to the pot. She did not add salt to her stock, other than when roasting the separate root vegetables. She always froze her stock because it helped in removing the top layer of fat. When making chicken stock, she kept that layer of fat for other uses. I love your blogs and posts and learn so much from you!

    1. Andrea Avatar

      That sounds so amazing, I’d drink some of that without adding anything else!

    2. Ben Avatar

      Cathy, this is such a great comment, thank you! You must have eaten very well as a little girl!

  6. MsShay Avatar
    MsShay

    I never knew about adding lemon or vinegar to stock. Thank you.

  7. Shahriyar Avatar
    Shahriyar

    Hi Ben,
    I tried this and the stock came out very very cloudy. How do you uncloudify the concentrated stock?

    1. Ben Avatar

      Shahriyar, this WILL concentrate solids in your stock, resulting in a cloudy stock. If you’re trying to make consomme, this is NOT the proper method for that. The concentrate, when it is diluted, will return to a normal looking stock, but will still not be the crystal clear stock you’re thinking of as consomme. To clarify stock before reduction for consomme, you need to use an egg white raft BEFORE you reduce the stock. Instructions can be found here: http://www.culinaryone.com/how-to-clarify-broth/ However, for most soups and sauces, clarification is completely unnecessary and a waste of time. Please note that if you clarify the stock and then reduce it as far as I do for this method, you’ll still see some cloudiness in the stock, because you are reducing it almost the point where it’s a solid. The stock concentrate will NEVER be clear with this method.

  8. Gabriela Avatar
    Gabriela

    Hi ben, I just got like 10 pounds of frozen raw chicken bones from a butcher (for free!!). i want to try your stock concentrate. Can I put the bones raw in the water or do I need to roast them first? It wasn’t clear in your post… Cheers from Brazil!!!!!

    1. Ben Avatar

      Gabriela, you don’t need to roast ANY bones to make stock. Roasting them gives the stock a different flavor. I prefer the flavor of roasted pork and beef stock, but you can use the chicken bones raw if you like! The stock will have a darker, toasted flavor if you roast the bones first, and a lighter, brighter flavor if you don’t.

  9. islancka Avatar
    islancka

    WHY did I not think of this? Thanks Ben! I make a batch of stock a couple times a month, yet it’s never occurred to me to concentrate it like that. You’ve saved me a ton of freezer space and thawing/reducing time. You are the master of space/time!

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